writes Muhammad Asad Ullah
Comfortable and smart T-shirts/ polo dresses, high necklines and cargos for the bold, the beautiful and young happening to wear is no longer tedious; minimal and futuristic is what London Fashion Week SS19 caterwauled
This London Fashion Week was the trailer of what’s coming next – the retail and couture revolution that will propel the business of fashion forward. A lot of designers changed tack and followed suit, the savvy upping their game. London Fashion Week always sets a more feminine and glamourous mood than any other fashion week happening – but sometimes one can accredit that to the jousted and loved weather of the city as well. It’s never sunny but the glamour is always tinged with punky sensibility, ruffles and sequins, supersized loud and proud. Colours were rich and decadent; with peroxide, black, navy, maroon, burgundy all making an impact – and rich textures; from shearling and cable knit, to woven fabrics, jacquard flowers, edgy cuts and embellishments on flowing silhouettes also evident. Comfortable and smart T-shirts/ polo dresses, high necklines and cargos for the bold, the beautiful and young happening to wear is no longer tedious; minimal and futuristic is what LFW SS19 caterwauled. Fashion Desk lists down top seven collections that went on the ramp this season.
Whatever Beckham wears, women race to buy. She knows that and she translates it well with her collections. With her 10th anniversary show, held in a gallery right next door to her Dover Street store London, she focused on the hoopla of relatability asserting the age-inclusivity of her brand. She pushed the slouchy elegance trend with its easy, structured designs with sharp cuts that leave enough room to breathe easy – sharp being the key word. From black, white, shades of tangerine to camel brown and grey, Victoria transformed loose straight-cut dresses, giving it more form, clinching it at the waist with a same toned belt – a structuring technique common yet involving aesthetics of a great deal. Her collection was smart and appealing with every reason to sport just at any occasion. For red carpet minimalism with black floor length gown to the chilly streets of London for a shopping spree, the sophistication redefined with cuts.
One can always predict earthly hues of beige taking over the centre stage for Burberry, well it always has been, but what one cannot pre-empt is their vivacious play with edgy cuts and well-tailored silhouettes. The collection featured trench-coats, one knee-length smart fitted coats, buttoned up polo shirts, piped blazers, and cinched with a broad elasticated belt – the chic appealing looks all perfectly crafted and nonchalant way more than too constructed to thread-bared. It was a cohesive and very winter specific collection. The smart close-to-the-torso suits and smart parkas were perfectly aligned with the British taste.
From head designer of knitwear at Chanel to paving his way as a Creative Director of Givenchy, designing both Haute couture and ready-to-wear collections, this guy has experience that speaks volume of his aesthetics and while being playful and relaxed yet daring and sporty he took over the runway. It seemed as if it was too easy for him to design for a finale show – too smooth with body fitted gowns, sequins breaking off the runway glamour, sexy in the stereotypical sense of the word. Sharp-shouldered, clingy, barely there, butt-baring, diaphanous; the illusion/nude/shock-value – dresses that radiated spark for party. The dresses were more party-focused than professionally oriented, but Julien knows his work well and has huge clientele worldwide. Luxe was there with unimaginable objectifying glamour.
When Rihaana was spotted wearing Simone’s white brocade jacket and matching pencil skirt, the designer was in headlines for weeks. And why not! When your work speaks volume of your craftsmanship, that’s exactly what you deserve. Sequin-embroidered peplum and balloon dresses, expressive deep clouds taking over the clear sky, not so fitted pants, letting the fabric flow, feminine prints in abstract and floral patterns with neon rays, oversized tops and coats caped down with net, lace and chiffon trimmed veils and prints of antique paintings of Tang dynasty beauties on flowing cocktail dresses, all radiated Simone’s trademark cutting-edge design. She displayed her expert craftsmanship in the art.
High necklines, full-length sleeves, and ankle-grazing dresses is exactly what we spotted at Christopher Kane’s show and it was sexy! Christopher featured a loud and edgy collection. Blush pink mesh skirts were met with drop hem and cape-like shirting whilst mules were updated with crystals and cut outs. Double strapped sandals paired with oversized suiting and delicate silk split dominated the runway with the Midas touch accompanied by oversized lapel blazers with ruffles shirts, layering and sartorial details. Gotta love the brown self-check power suit in this monochromatic ensemble!
Temperley featured 28 looks in the palette of blush pink, faded black, mist of tangerine and pistachio– with crystals and delicate embroidery work; the chic appealing looks, all too perfectly detailed. Few slipped to the formal gowns but others were day wear and cocktail dresses and few kaaftans epitomised by modern bohemianism with a confident, feminine and effortless attitude. It’s sunny, pretty and feminine in a more austere vein than crazy, luxury and blingy, but hey you’ve got to love the versatility! Most of the pieces that came out on the runway were beach perfect, were going effortless yet fashionable is all you want! Couleurs parfaits honey!
Prints prints, psychedelic taffeta and extravagant touch of animalier; exotic prints, block colours, basic monochrome and perfectly aesthetic couture pieces in a hint of clash prints, Mary Katrantazou has definitely refined her signature aesthetic and has expanded the complexity of her textile beyond print, translating her visuals to knit, digital craftsmanship, lace, and a focus on form – which was evident on the runway. Her sometimes flowing and sometimes contained fabric and cuts were clean enough that she went for minimalism for her pieces with sequins or other flashy glitz to set the ramp on fire. Her pieces were well structured and most of them till knee length. Where it might be difficult to translate these to retail, but we might spot a celebrity or two sporting Mary at the red carpet galore.
Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou, and Victoria Beckham