It was hard to tell the difference between the girls and the boys, which was exactly the point. Courting the Millennial customer in an increasingly gender-fluid universe, Olivier Rousteing, who chose as his show set a vast mirrored silver floor, said he’s looking to “push a new world.”
One, he said, “[free of] labels and boxes…where nobody judges, and where you can have freedom of expression.”
As the industry ponders the evolution of streetwear, the designer amped up the tailoring quotient, including black-and-white tuxedos and looks layering cropped jackets and spencers, with an Old Hollywood movie industry tycoon-meets-Gatsby-meets-MC Hammer vibe to the collection.
Key silhouettes included a tweed jacket trimmed with metal chains, worn over an ultra-long gauzy black mohair sweater and white shirt and with sweat pant-style bottoms, with opera-style glasses completing the look. The collection, though a little more toned down than usual, came festooned with treatments including feathers, tie-dye and lacquered jersey for shine.
The hybrid, split personality denim and leather jackets, and the closing leather section of what proved to be a sprawling show, ticked off some of the season’s major trends. Lending a soupçon of fetish, iPhones came suspended from black leather harnesses strapped at the chest of certain looks, delivering one of the show’s many messages.
“Your phone and all things digital can be the most wonderful thing, but it can also be your new jail, so be careful,” cautioned the designer, who also had a message for the haters: “When you make comments about a collection, you’re making comments about a human being. Everything is easy when you’re a keyboard warrior.”
New were the leather graffiti pieces, like a black leather coat with open shoulders, worn over a cream mohair knit turtleneck sweater and also paired with sweat pants. They came splattered in white plaster, giving a punk, DIY attitude, with among the messages delivered at the back: “You know my name, you don’t know my story.”